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THE DRIVER

The beginning driver should either have experience riding an equine or should be accompanied by an instructor in order to learn how to handle the reins and whip.  It is much easier to learn to drive than ride because the driver has to concentrate only on handling and communicating with the donkey through the reins.  In contrast, riding involves body position, balance and leg aides in conjunction with the reins.  The
beginning driver is best advised to purchase a calm, experienced, driving animal and must be well aware that there is no such thing as an accident proof animal.  By attending driving clinics and schooling shows, the novice driver can greatly expand his or her driving knowledge and gain expertise.

A two-hand method of holding the reins.  Excess reins are draped over the left
thumb.Photo by C. Christen

The reins must be held in the best position for the driver to quickly shorten or lengthen the lines in response to the animal’s movements.  Importantly, the driver must always have any extra length of reins positioned to prevent entanglement of the person’s body or limbs.  Likewise, dragging reins can impose a danger through entanglement in the vehicle wheels.  Some folks sit on any extra length of reins.  A
method of holding excess reins is shown in Fig 26.  The extra length of reins can be draped over the thumb of the dominant rein hand (Fig 27) and the reins are subsequently positioned as shown (Fig 26).  The whip is positioned and balanced in the opposite hand as shown in Fig 28.  Driving with one hand (Fig 29) offers a distinct advantage over two hand driving, particularly for a pleasure drive down the road or
trail.  If the driver is competent enough to hold the reins in one hand, this position enables the driver to use the free hand to quickly grab ahead of the rein hand and shorten the reins (Fig 30).  The bottom line is that you need to find a way to shorten the reins quickly without pulling them back to your chin or chest; a very awkward and ineffective method of control.

Reins draped over the left thumb; positioning to grab left rein with left hand.Photo by C. Christen

When the whip is positioned, it is held in either a 10:00 or 2:00 o’clock direction depending on your dominant rein hand.  The whip length, including a lash, should be long enough to touch the donkey’s shoulder.  The whip is used to guide the direction of the donkey as well as to urge him forward.  The whip should always be available in case of emergency to demand forceful, forward movement.  An animal in backward motion is completely out of control and dangerous.  Likewise, your donkey may be
balking at an obstacle that it is worried about when a more dangerous circumstance 
develops of which you are aware.

Whip balanced over thumb of right hand in a two-hand method of holding the
reins.Photo by C. Christen

Always try to drive with well-fitted leather gloves.  Gloves are essential for maximum grip.  Loosely fitted gloves are dangerous and could cause a finger to become caught in the reins.  Never wrap the reins around your hands.

A single hand method of holding the reins.  This method frees the whip hand
for better guidance and contact with the mouth.Photo by C. Christen

Learning to communicate with your donkey requires a lot of driving.  You will have contact with the animal’s mouth through the bit and will learn to determine the animal’s movements with experience.  For example: when the reins become slack, the animal’s head has risen and the ears may be pricked forward.  This is usually a signal that the donkey may be getting ready to stop and turn sharply away from something it is worried about or it may be getting ready to bolt away from something bothering it from behind.  At this moment you must be ready to quickly shorten the reins to keep contact with the
donkey’s mouth.  You are then better prepared to stop the animal from whatever movement it decides to make on its own.  Always watch the ears and head position to determine what your animal is thinking.  It is easy to become relaxed and drive without contact, but for maximum performance and control, keep good contact with the animal’s mouth.  In other words, don’t just ride in the cart, but drive your animal.

A quick, one-hand method of shortening the reins.Photo by C. Christen

Once the beginner learns the elements of driving and control of the donkey, practice figure 8's at a walk and trot, then pursue the traffic cones, maneuvering between them and making a serpentine pattern around them.  These are excellent training techniques that increase the donkey’s and your precision.  Although you may never even want to think of competing, this type of training helps prepare the donkey for maneuvering along trails, through the woods or other tight spots.  It can’t comprehend that you may
almost have to drive it straight into a tree to get around another obstacle with the vehicle.  It will, instead, obey your command.  The donkey learns to trust your judgement and will enter places that don’t make sense to it.

When making circles for the figure 8 and to determine whether the animal is bending correctly in the direction that you command, its head should be turned slightly so that you can just view its nose from behind.  Some animals want to turn with their head pointed away from the bend of the circle and the shoulder is pointed out.  To correct this problem, keep the head straight and jiggle the inside rein (rein on side of the direction you are turning).  Eventually the donkey should bring the nose around to the correct direction.  This is referred to as “following his nose”.  In some animals this problem can be very difficult to correct.

Do not allow the donkey to cantor or gallop unless it is very well trained or has been driven in specific timed events.  Likewise, do not allow the donkey to run downhill.  Remember, if the donkey should stumble and fall forward downhill, the shafts of the cart will also go downward with the animal, and this forward motion will be greatly increased if the animal is running.  You may then find yourself thrown forward out of the cart.  Another point to consider is to take hills straight on or at a slight angle.  The
smaller, light weight carts tip over quite easily.

 To teach turning in place, bring the donkey to a complete stop.  Jiggle the rein and say “Gee or Come” for a right turn and “Haw or Get” for a left turn.  The whip should be used as a guide on the opposite side of the turn.  When the donkey tries to step forward while turning, pull back on the reins, then resume the signal to turn.  A helpful hint: drive a fair distance away from the stable.  The donkey usually wants to turn back toward the stable and is more readily willing to turn sharply.  Once this is accomplished, you should be able to turn the donkey 360 degrees without moving forward.  Obviously, this can only be accomplished with a two wheeled cart.

To slow down an energetic donkey, drive in small circles until it tires of speeding or increase the draft.  For example, tie a tire to the back of the cart until the donkey becomes “not so energetic”.  Don’t always depend on tire dragging.  The donkey needs to learn not to pull, therefore good cone and circling exercises are recommended.  To speed a pokey donkey up is a more difficult problem.  Do something that will agitate the donkey and will cause him to move forward, but use it sparingly.  Donkeys become
immune to things that disturb them.  If you need a more energetic donkey for your driving needs, purchase that type.  It is easier to work on slowing a donkey down than prodding a pokey one.  The lazy donkey is perfect for beginning drivers and children.

 DRIVING BITS AND BITTING

The driving bit is the major form of communication and control of the carriage animal; voice and whip commands are secondary.  The bit is used for turning, stopping and controlling the speed of the donkey.  A BIT IS AS HARSH AS THE HANDS OF THE DRIVER GUIDING THE ANIMAL.   For example, a harsh bit in the hands of an accomplished driver can be very mild, yet the stopping power is available if needed.  Always try to STRIVE FOR THE MILDEST BIT POSSIBLE that will control your donkey.  Lots of training usually accomplishes this goal.

The parts of the bit(s) are shown in Fig 31 in order to clarify explanations and descriptions further referred to in this section.

PARTS OF THE BIT

Driving bits are divided into two categories; the SNAFFLE BIT and the CURB BIT.  The snaffle bit is a non-leverage bit and generally is composed of a metal mouthpiece (straight, curved, jointed/broken) with a rein ring and accompanying cheek piece attached at each end of the mouthpiece (Fig 31).  The curb bit is a leverage bit and is generally composed of a metal mouthpiece (straight, curved, rarely jointed) with shanks for rein attachment and a curb chain/strap (Fig 31).  Some curb bits such as the Liverpool bit (Fig 31) have rein rings and shanks.  The reins can be attached at the ring or on down the shank (Fig 32). 

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Rein attachment positions from mild (cheek/rough cheek) to harsh (2nd slot).Photo by C. Christen

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Examples of some snaffle and curb driving bits.Photo by C. Christen

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Signs that the donkey is not comfortable with the bit are as follows: mouth gaping with the head held high or the head may be tucked down toward the chest to escape bit pressure; constant chewing, biting the bit, head jerking, tongue lolling, tongue over the bit.

 SNAFFLE BITS

The snaffle bit is considered a mild bit, but the thinner the bit mouthpiece, the more harsh the pressure on the mouth.  Snaffle bits exert pressure primarily on the animal’s tongue.  Broken/jointed snaffle bits exert more downward pressure on the bars of the mouth and are considered more harsh than the straight or curved mouthpieces.  Broken snaffles are considered to have the effect of applying a nutcracker type action on the mouth and jaw.  The Mullen mouth piece (Fig 33-A) is milder than the straight bar piece
because it takes some pressure off the tongue.  The slight upward curve also lessens the animal’s urge to place it’s tongue over the bit.  Snaffle bits are good for teaching the animal to bend and turn and are better for lateral training the beginning animal.  The mouthpiece of some snaffles comes with a rubber coating (Fig 33-B) that is considered quite mild and is good for starting animals.  The twisted, broken snaffle (Fig 33-C) is considered to be quite harsh and is not recommended except in very careful hands. 
The over-check snaffle bits (Fig 33- D, E) are used for Standardbred racing horses and fancy driving horses and ponies to keep the head up as previously discussed.  (Refer to “Let’s Drive Our Donkeys”, Part Ill)

The curb bit, built with shanks (long cheek pieces with rein rings and slots), Fig 31 increases jaw pressure and is better at slowing and stopping the donkey than snaffle types.  Curb bits encourage longitudinal flexion at the poll, but are also used for the strong, difficult to rate and stop animal.  The fulcrum action of the curb chain/strap, under the chin, and reins attached on the bit shank, exerts a stronger downward pull on the animal’s bars, tongue, etc. depending on the individual mouthpiece.  The amount of pressure can be adjusted from mild (cheek/rough cheek attachment with a loose curb chain) to harsh (2nd slot/loop attachment) Fig 32.  The jaw is squeezed between the mouthpiece of the bit and the curb chain/strap. 

The curb chain/strap should fit low and into the chin groove when the curb is in action.  The curb chain should be rotated so that the links lie flat while exerting pressure on the jaw.  You should be able to insert two fingers flatly in the space between the jaw and curb chain.  For best curb action, the curb chain should tighten into the chin groove when the curb rotates about 45 degrees.

Ports (Fig 31,33-G) are raised areas in the center of an unjointed mouthpiece to allow more tongue space.  When ports are added to the mouthpiece, additional pressure is applied to the hard palate (roof of mouth) depending on the port height.  The higher the port, the more pressure is applied to the palate.  If a port is needed, observe show rules for accepted port heights.  Hopefully, your donkey will be well
trained to drive obediently and comfortably in one of the milder bits.

The snaffle bit is best used for schooling your donkey and pleasure driving in familiar surroundings.  When driving in unfamiliar territory a stronger bit may be needed for better stopping action.  The Liverpool bit (Fig 32) is an example of a good general driving bit because it can be driven at the snaffle ring (cheek or rough cheek position) or curb position.  The straight bar mouthpiece on the Liverpool bit is made with a rough and smooth side that can be reversed to increase or decrease the severity.  The Liverpool bit (Fig 33-I) comes in miniature size.  Stay with cheek or rough cheek position and use the 1st slot attachment cautiously for a headstrong donkey. 

 SAFETY

1. Always check hitched animal and equipment before entering the vehicle.
2. Be sure donkey is well trained and socialized before driving in foreign territory.
3. Never leave a harnessed and hitched animal unattended.
4. Try to use vehicles that are easy to enter and exit.
5. Never tie the donkey by the bit.
6. Carry a whip.
7. Wear a safety helmet (not commonly used among drivers except in competition
driving).
8. Always drive on the right-hand side of the road with the traffic.
9. Like swimming, try not to drive alone.
10. Carry a spares kit to keep harness and vehicle safe.  A spares kit might consist of
items such as a halter and lead rope, first aid items, extra reins, leather punch and
leather pieces, hoof pick, pocket knife, extra nuts/bolts and any other parts needed for
repair.

 SAFETY ON THE TRAIL

1. Teach donkey to have patience, walk along quietly and not rush the vehicle ahead.
2. Teach animal not to become upset when it can’t be with a buddy or the rest of the
trail animals.
3. Teach animal not to rush downhill; always walk.  Some downhill areas will be very
steep on the trail and animals end up sliding down on their haunches.
4. Teach donkey not to jump water/mud crossings (a major way to break harness or
damage vehicles).
5. Teach animals to always pull hard uphill and never allow them to back down (they
may end up rearing or may jack knife the vehicle).
6. Trail driving animals must be more tolerant of foreign objects, noises and rugged
terrain than arena driving animals.
7.  Do not remove bridle and apply halter while animal is hitched (use halter over or
under the bridle to tie).
8. Never tie a hitched animal unless it is very well trained to stand quietly tied.
9.  If tying when stopped for breaks, animals must be securely tied and attended by
someone in or near the vehicle.
10. Trail driving animals must be very traffic/train safe.
11. Trail driving animals must be well conditioned.
12. Maneuverability is very essential because there will be sharp turns and backing on
the trail.
13. A whip is essential to escape danger.
14. Train animals to accept saddle animals and other hitches moving rapidly toward the
donkey and coming from behind (the natural instinct is to run when other animals are
running).
15. If animals are shod, always use borium or some other abrasive when attending a
trail ride since slick roads may be encountered.
16. Always call ahead to learn conditions of the trail and determine if your animal will
be fit for that kind of drive or has the temperament for obstacles that may be
encountered.
17. Try to have an outrider or companion to help should problems develop.

 DRAFT CALCULATIONS FOR MINIATURE DONKEYS

The following draft calculations were prepared for the 1998 Rio Brazos Miniature Donkey Expo, Waco, Texas by Drs. Tex Taylor, Ron Martens and Judy Martens, using information provided from Dr Taylor’s experience and research on draft and endurance performance in Donkeys at Texas A&M University.
 

How heavy a load should a Miniature Donkey be expected to pull?  The amount of pull or draft required to move a load is measured in pounds.  It is a function of the weight (vehicle + harness + load, i.e. passenger, food, etc) plus resistance of the vehicle on the ground.  It’s much easier to pull a load in a wagon than to pull the same load in a flat bottomed stone boat, and it’s easier to pull a wagon on an asphalt road than through deep sand.  That is because of the increased ground resistance, and hence greater draft or pull is needed. 

How is the amount of draft (pounds of pull required to move a load) measured?  A simplified method is as follows: a spring weight scale is attached by ropes to the vehicle shafts (Fig 34) at the point where the shaft rests in the tugs (shaft holders) of the harness.  Someone then pulls the loaded vehicle, by the scale, over ground surfaces similar to those over which the vehicle will be driven.  The pounds of force needed to start and maintain movement are read on the scale.

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Measurement of the draft by a spring weight scale  Photo by C. Christen

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The following are examples of the amount of draft required to start and sustain movement of an 80 lb miniature easy entry cart with pneumatic tires and different weight passengers (110 lbs & 215 lbs) over various ground surfaces.

215 lb. Person                                                        215 lb Person
Down load                             10 lbs.                      Start                           35 lbs.
Start                                      25 lbs                       Maintenance               35 lbs.
Maintenance                          17 lbs.
 

DEEP SAND                                               20 DEGREE GRASS HILL
110 lb. Person                                                      110 lb. Person
Start                                     47 lbs.                      Start                          35 lbs.
Maintenance                         27 lbs                       Maintenance              30 lbs.

215 lb. Person                                                      215 lb. Person 
Start                                     65 lbs.                        Start                        55 lbs.
Maintenance                         47 lbs.                        Maintenance           55 lbs.
Pivot                                    70 lbs.

One example of a 30 day conditioning program is:
1.  Drive 3 days a week (every other day), pulling 15% of the donkey’s body weight for
1-1/2 hours.  Start by walking and gradually intersperse longer periods of trotting.  By
the end of the month the animal should be trotting 2/3 to 3/4 of the time.
2.  On alternate days, lunge at the trot for 20-30 minutes.
3.  A day off once a week.

In conclusion, if you think that you would like to start driving your donkey or further expand your donkey driving beyond home or the show arena, contact a trail riding and driving or carriage driving association.  These groups of driving enthusiasts are some of the friendliest and most helpful folks you would ever want to meet.  The opportunities are vast for various types of pleasure driving.  A relaxing drive with family and friends combined with a picnic is a wonderful way to spend the day and forget all of your
worries.  HAPPY TRAILS!.

Although this series of articles was written for Miniature Donkey drivers, many of the descriptions were presented with a larger, stronger and more excitable animal in mind.  Since the Miniature Donkey is a good candidate for the beginner, that person may later advance to a larger animal and should be well aware that not all driving animals are as quiet and safe as most miniatures are to drive.

The author would like to give credit to the following folks who have been important mentors over the years.  First and foremost, much credit is extended to Tom O’Carroll of Kerry, Ireland for his many driving clinics and personal instruction.  To the driving clinic instructors, Francine Dismukes of Luling, Texas, Dr. Gary Potter of Texas A&M University., and Mike & Jerry McClennan of Brenham, Texas, much gratitude is extended.  Credit is due to Dr. Tex Taylor of Texas A&M University for his help with all aspects of donkey behavior and problems.  Lastly, many thanks are extended to all of those driving companions that have provided many driving tips over the years.
 
 

American Driving Society
P.O. Box 160
Metamora, MI  48455-0160

Trail Rider
147 Sunridge Rd.
Alexandria, LA  71302

American Donkey & Mule Society
PO Box 1210, Lewisville TX 75067
(yes, moved from Denton in 2001)
phone: (972) 219-0781
Fax (972) 420-9980
e-mail adms@juno.com

Copyright  1996-2009  by Jeanine A. Rachau. All rights reserved. E-Mail Webmaster: Contact Blue Mountain Farm

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